following summary by
Milt Webb is very thorough. It may keep you
mighty busy for awhile, but it should have you ready to
GETTING IT READY FOR DURABLE TOURING
Yep, it takes more than a can of gas and a new battery
to get a mothball 'T' [10-50 years storage] ready to go
on the road!
You always hear, "It ran OK 10 years ago!" In my
experience, it takes all the checks, cleaning, repairs,
and adjustments outlined below to get through the first
Install a new 6-volt battery, negative to ground. Remove
and clean ground strap bolt on the frame. Install a
ground strap from the bolt at the emergency brake cross
shaft bracket to the bottom U-joint cover bolt on the
crankcase. Use a heavy woven-style cable or a #1 gauge
cable with flat ends. Loosen one bolt on the starter and
re-tighten. This breaks corrosion, if any.
Remove and disassemble the starter switch. Sand the
contacts to shiny clean. Remove starter cable nut at
starter. Tighten bottom nut to just snug. These are
pinned and soldered on the inside. Sometimes the solder
joint breaks loose and the pin pulls out easily if
Install new #1 gauge cables, from the battery to the
switch and from the switch to the starter. Old cables
are usually corroded even when you cannot see the green.
Caution: Do not use 12 volt cables [number 4 or 6
gauge]. 12-volt cables will get warm or hot during
crank, plus the cranking may be very slow.
It is best to test the starting system with a digital
voltmeter. For best results, acceptable voltage drop
during cranking readings are:
Cable, batt. to starter switch 0.2 volt max
Starter switch, post-post 0.2 volt max
Cable, starter switch to starter0.2 volt max
Cable, batt. neg.[-] to engine0.2 volt max
Batt. pos. [ +] to neg. [-] 4.5 min [cold]
Battery, positive to negative5.0 min [hot]
Starter draw 400 amps max
See Figure 1 on "How to Make Voltage Drop Measurements".
For better starter switch durability, install a '48 Ford
starter, 6-volt solenoid. Use the 'T' starter switch for
the solenoid 'control' switch to ground. See Figure 2 on
'hooking up a solenoid'.
If the starter is 'sluggish' at this point, try spraying
some electronic or motor cleaner on the starter
commutator during crank. If the current draw is over 400
amps, have the starter re-built.
During re-build, install a seal in the end of the
starter mount housing. See Figure 3 for how to. This
will prevent massive oil leaks out of the starter.
Test starter after re-build by hooking the starter post
to a 6-volt battery plus (+) terminal with heavy jumper
cables. Hold the starter on the floor. Connect the
negative (-) terminal to the starter at the mounting
bolt flange. Run starter motor [no load]. Grasp the
starter shaft and hold to slow down the shaft. If you
can slow it down some, but can't stop it, the starter is
good. If you can stop it [shaft], it won't crank engine.
During this test, the amps will go up to 75 at around
The commutator [timer], coils, and coil box are usually
in need of cleaning, adjusting, and tightening.
Corrosion takes its toll from sitting.
Clean the timer and roller [or brush] with solvent and
sand the grounding bars to shiny clean. Sand the roller
or brush tip. Sand the brush-type commutator bars and
clean with solvent.
Check the wiring from the commutator to the coil primary
for shorts and opens by disconnecting both ends. for
testing. Re-install wires to commutator, routing them so
they will not touch metal or kink when advancing or
retarding the spark.
On roller-type commutators, oil rotor and commutator
bars liberally with motor oil upon re-assembly. On
brush-type commutators. I recommend leaving the brush
and commutator strips dry.
Disassemble the coil box connectors. Clean all the
hardware in muriatic swimming pool acid [goggles and
gloves]. It is best to solder the contacts to the small
carriage bolts . Install new wood [kit from 'T'
suppliers]. Treat the wood with water sealer, but do not
paint the wood, especially with black paint. Painting
may cause shorts. Black paint has charcoal, a conductor!
I strongly recommend you let a professional restore the
coils, installing new points and modern condensers, and
adjusting to the correct current draw using the hand
crank magneto. You will more than likely have reasonable
trouble-free operation. Adjusting the gap to a 'strong
buzz' does not guarantee good spark.
Clean or replace the spark plugs and adjust the gap to
You may want to compare the cost of a distributor to 'T'
coil repair. If you're showing your 'T', stay with the
original coils and timer to maintain authenticity. If
you want a driver [durability and smoother acceleration]
purchase a distributor, 6-volt coil, and plug wires.
If using a distributor, disconnect the 'T' coil box
primary wire and connect it to the new 6-volt coil +
terminal. Connect the coil °© terminal to the
distributor. Use number 14-gauge wire for all primary
wire hook up.
If your 'T' is a 12-volt system, install a 'dropping'
resistor to cut the voltage from 12 to nine.
Adjust the point gap to 0.017 inches if no specification
The distributor turns clockwise. Remove number one plug
and turn crank to TDC on the compression stroke. Retard
the spark lever, turn the distributor body in the
counter-clockwise direction until the points just start
to open. This is the retarded firing position on number
one cylinder [TDC].
Install the advance linkage and adjust the rod length
with the spark control lever in the retard position to
match the retard position of the distributor. Tighten
distributor housing clamp bolt.
Check advance linkage for binding.
If your new distributor has advance weights, retard to
start, then advance the spark by moving the lever down
1⁄2 inch from the retard position. The automatic advance
will take care of additional distributor advance at
Remove all four plugs and measure the compression.
Continually crank the engine until the compression
pressure has built up four times. Record the compression
pressure of each cylinder. A good 'T' engine [cold] will
crank 50 psi on each cylinder. 45 psi is OK. 25 psi is a
worn engine or bad valves and there may not be enough
power to propel the car. If the compression pressure
varies over 5 psi from cylinder to cylinder, grind the
valves and set the tappet clearance to around 0.012
If there's no starter, remove all four plugs. Crank each
cylinder through compression with your thumb covering
the plug hole. If the pressure is about equal in all
cylinders, the valves are probably OK. Also, visually
look down each plug hole at top of valves. If they are
the same color, the odds are they're good enough to
start the engine.
Drain the oil. Install four quarts of 20-50 weight oil.
Check for dripping out of the top oil level petcock.
If the old oil is 'jelly' or 'syrup' let it drain
Install pan plug using a small amount of RTV gasket
maker on washer.
If equipped with an external oiler, disassemble and
verify it's not plugged up.
After start up, let engine warm up for one minute at
around 1000 RPM.
Increase the RPM to 1500 and hold it steady. Then, short
each cylinder, one at a time, to detect rod bearing
knock. If the rod knock(s) goes away with a warm engine,
the rods are slightly loose. If the rod knock(s)
continues with a warm engine, adjust the rods to 0.002
inches clearance and install Chevrolet-style oil dippers
["T" supply houses stock the dippers].
Refer to the 'Engine Manual' published by MTFCA for
Drain water and re-fill. Add a cup of StaLube 'soluble
If the tubes are rusted on the top end, remove radiator
and have it professionally checked and flushed at a
In the fuel system, checks include the fuel tank, fuel
lines, filter, carburetor, and intake manifold leaks.
Start at the fuel tank. If it's full of flakey rust
inside, or there is 'algae' and\or it has rust holes in
the bottom, have it restored professionally or replace
Disassemble the fuel sediment bowl, clean in muriatic
acid and replace the filter screen.
Set up sediment bowl in vice. Loosen front fitting. Use
a propane torch to heat bowl casting.
Reassemble and install the sediment bowl into the tank.
Use aviation, gas-resistant sealant on the threads. Do
not get sealant inside gas passages. Do not use 'Teflon'
tape. Gasoline will dissolve the tape, and it may get
inside, causing flooding problems.
Pour in one gallon of gas and test for leaks and flow
out the sediment bowl. Install the gas line over the
frame rail. Route the fuel line under the splash shield
parallel to the frame rail. Route fuel line between
firewall and frame rail adjacent to firewall to frame
bracket. This routing will minimize heat transfer into
fuel line. Other routings may cause fuel foaming ['vapor
Disassemble carburetor and clean in carburetor cleaner.
If float needle valve seat is 'frozen' in the carburetor
top, leave it alone. Use old needle valve.
If the needle valve seat can be removed, replace it with
a new 'Viton' tip needle and seat or a double check
ball-style valve [Grose Jet].
Test the float [brass] in hot water. If small bubbles
escape while immersed, the float is defective. Replace
The older carburetors use a cork float. If intact, sand
lightly with 320 grit sand paper. Coat with
gas-resistant epoxy [Hobby Poxy #1]. Wipe off excess
before the epoxy cures. Coat a second time. Wipe again.
Check weight before and after each coating. Less than
0.1 ounce increase in weight is OK. If more, start again
with a new cork float [available from 'T' parts
A new cork float must be coated with very light coats of
gas-resistant epoxy. The same technique discussed above
applies to new cork floats.
Gas-resistant- Try it out; soak a small amount of cured
epoxy in gas. It if softens, try another brand. If the
float gets too heavy, it will sink, causing flooding!
Adjust the float to specification. Turn carburetor
upside-down. Usually, if the float is 'level' with the
top surface of carburetor, the float level is OK.
Re-assemble and install carburetor. Adjust needle valve
to one turn open from seat. Most 'Ts' run at around 1⁄2
to 3⁄4 turn.
If adjustment is a lot different than this on NH
carburetors, something may be wrong with the carburetor
or float. Review the Ford 'T' Service Manual or the
Carburetor Manual published by the MTFCA.
By now, you know if 'neutral' has a slight drag which is
normal. In some cases, long storage and some oils will
allow the clutch disks to 'seize up', caused by
'congealing' of the old oil. If this occurs, jack up one
rear wheel so a 'neutral' will be available for easy
To test for neutral [before start up] pull the emergency
brake lever all the way back [neutral and rear wheel
brake]. If it cranks with the starter, neutral is OK. If
not, pull the engine through with the hand crank. If no
neutral, then try and free up after start up [see 'Run
Start up' later in this text].
If neutral is OK, check the pedal adjustments next. Low
gear pedal should tighten the band just before hitting
the floor board. The high gear lever should begin to
engage the clutch shaft lever for neutral about midway
between all the way down and the vertical position. The
rear wheel brakes should not drag at this point. Pull
the brake lever to vertical position; both rear wheels
should have an equal heavy drag [see Rear Axle Drive
Shaft and Brake Adjustment].
The transmission brake pedal should engage about one
inch above the floor board.
The reverse band should engage about halfway between
full up and the floor board.
If band adjustment cannot be obtained, review the Ford
'T' Service Manual or the Transmission Manual [MTFCA]
for relining and adjustment procedures.
STEERING AND FRONT AXLE
Start with the steering gear. Remove the steering wheel
and steering gear cover. Pack with moly chassis lube or
wheel bearing grease. Lube steering collar [lower part]
with grease cup.
Check the pitman arm on the shaft. Many times this nut
and arm are loose on the steering shaft. Check woodruff
key for slop. Oil threads and tighten to around 75 pound
feet torque and re-install the cotter pin.
Test the drag link ball caps for looseness by turning
the steering wheel free play [wheels on ground]. Put
your finger between the cap and the steering arm. If
there is 'slop' [more than 1\32 inch], remove cap and
grind flat face. Re-install cap and re-check for
clearance [less than 1\32 inch]. If OK, disassemble,
grease with moly lube, tighten bolts and jamb nuts,
insert cotter pins. Test for binding (lock to lock) with
wheels off the ground.
If drag link binds, loosen bolts slightly, tighten jamb
nuts, and insert new cotter pins. Check for binding
again. Repeat drag link cap check on the right end
Check and oil the tie rod ends. If more than 1\32 inch
clearance, replace pins and bushings [See Ford 'T'
Service Manual for procedures]. Rebuild kits are
available from the 'T' parts supply houses.
Check the radius rod 'wishbone' ball and cap. If less
than 1\64 inch play side-to-side when turning the
steering wheel [front wheels on ground], grease wishbone
ball cap, tighten and \or replace studs, spring, and
nuts. The wishbone ball must be tight in the socket with
no side-to-side play.
Safety wire both studs to each other. Do not use cotter
pins. Ball joint studs may work loose and unscrew.
Remove and inspect the front wheel bearings and grease
seals. Clean bearings in solvent ['paint thinner', not
lacquer thinner]. Blow dry with air and then wash in
solvent, again. If rollers are pitted, replace bearings
and cups [races].
Grease bearings using moly wheel bearing grease. Install
inner wheel bearing and seal. Install wheel on spindle
shaft and screw on outer wheel bearing. The right
spindle axle nut and bearing should be a left-hand [counterclockwise]
thread. The left side is a right-hand thread. Tighten
until snug and back off until light bearing play exists.
Install washer and jamb nut. Tighten jamb nut to line up
cotter pin slots. Bearing play should be just snug with
out binding. Turn wheel [off ground]. If it stops
abruptly, loosen jamb nut, loosen bearing nut _ turn,
re-tighten jamb nut. If the wheel turns freely,
adjustment is OK.
Lastly, test the spindle and bushings [king pins] for
end [up and down] play and for vertical plane play.
In the vertical plane check [wheels off ground], grab
the top and bottom of the tire and wiggle in and out. If
the outer rim moves in and out more than one inch, look
at spindle bushings and wood spokes [spoke looseness
checks in 'wheels' section]. If in and out movement at
spindle [king pin] bushing is more than 1\64 inch
[0.015"] the spindle pin bushings are very loose and
should be replaced.
Next, test the bushing end play [up and down movement in
the vertical plane]. The end play clearance should be
zero. Test by placing a tire iron under the tire [wheels
off the ground]. If end play clearance is greater than 0
[like 0.005" or 0.010", 0.015" is 1\64 inch], remove
cotter pin, loosen jamb nut, tighten spindle bolt 1⁄4
turn, re-tighten jamb nut, and re-test for end play.
The bottom portion of the axle has a thread for the
spindle bolt. If it's stripped, tighten jamb nut to take
up end play. The Ford 'T' Service Manual specifies
tightening the spindle bolt until 'resistance' to
To avoid wheel wobble at low speed, tighten spindle bolt
to just zero end play, as outlined above. If left tight
[resistance] steering will be hard and the car will
steer you and you will be constantly correcting as you
travel down the road.
Oil the oil caps at top of spindle bolt with motor oil.
If oil drips to ground out of bottom bushing, oil holes
are open. If not, disassemble spindle bushing bolt,
clean oil holes and re-assemble. Test for end play,
align spindle jamb nut, and install cotter pin.
Test for camber, caster, and toe-in ['gather']. Make a
'plumb bob' with a string and a nut tied to one end.
Measure camber by holding the string at the top outer
surface of tire. Move forward until string clears the
hub cap. The horizontal measurement to tire surface at
bottom is three inches [specified in Ford 'T' Service
Test the caster [pitch] by holding a carpenter square
perpendicular to the floor and touching the front
surface of bottom spindle\axle area. Measure the
distance from the square to upper edge of spindle\axle
area. This measurement should be the specified 1⁄4 inch
on both spindles.
Measure the 'gather' [toe-in] by holding a tape measure
the inside front rim edge about halfway up from the
ground. Measure distance to same spot on other rim. Move
the tape measure to the inside rear rim edge. The
'toe-in' should be around 3\16 - 1⁄4 inch. For example,
if the front measures 53 1⁄2 inches and the back is 53
3⁄4 inches, the toe-in is 1⁄4 inch.
Many times, the toe-in measurement will be 1⁄2 inch
toe-in or up to 1⁄2 inch toe-out! Needles to say, the
car will wander all over if the above measurements are
Review the Ford 'T' Service Manual for detailed
procedures to measure camber, caster, and toe [gather].
Toe is adjustable.
In 1998, the wheels with metal outer rims may be up to
78 years old! Wood felloe and wood outer rim wheels may
be 88 years old!
That's old! If the spokes are loose in any way, consider
having them re-spoked by a professional wheelwright
advertised in the hobby magazines.
The wheel(s) may be slightly out of true in the vertical
plane. A _ inch out of true wobble is OK; but if
greater, consider re-spoking the wheel.
You have read about wheels folding up on curves and
causing accidents. It's worth the price to your family,
friends, and relates, in-laws and outlaws to make safety
a top issue!
Do not try shimming, epoxy, or resin to 'tighten' up the
spokes. The heat from the rear brakes may melt the glue
to honey, run out all over the brake, and then collapse!
REAR AXLE, DRIVE SHAFT AND BRAKE CHECKS
Test the drive shaft front bushing by removing the drive
shaft housing plugs. Insert a small screwdriver and push
up. If it pushes up 1\64 inch [0.015 inches] the
clearance is barely acceptable the clearance spec for
this bushing is 0.002 - 0.006 inches. If the clearance
is over 1\64 inches, it's very loose! This measurement
excess may indicate other rear axle wear and excess end
With a screwdriver, move the pin fore and aft to check
drive shaft end play. If over 1\64 inches [0.015"], it's
too loose. Although loose, one can drive the car.
Consider re-building the drive shaft assembly. Check the
Ford 'T' Service Manual for overhaul procedures.
If the drive shaft\U-joint pin is loose, support the
bottom of pin with a _ punch and blocks [hardwood on
cement] to the floor. Peen the top of pin with a 1⁄4
inch punch and a two-pound hammer. Turn drive shaft 180,
and peen the other end. The pin is quite soft.
Grease the drive shaft bushing cup with moly grease, and
turn it in 1⁄2 turn for every trip. The front drive
shaft bushing without grease is a 'high wear' item on a
Test the rear axle up and down play with wheels off the
ground. Any play up and down up to 0.005 inches is OK,
Test the wheels with a tire iron on the bottom side of
the tire using the iron as a lever. Lift it up and down.
If it's over 0.005 inches, it's loose! The wear is
usually in the bearing axle sleeve upper outside edge
To remove wheel hubs, jack up one side. Install a
'knock-out' on opposite axle shaft. Tighten knock-out.
Srike heavy blows on end of knock-out with a 'sledge'
hammer. If really tight, re-check knock-out. If, after
five hard blows, it is not loose, install a 'wheel
puller' to remove hub. Most wheel hubs fall off or come
loose with a couple of firm blows.
Remove the bearing [two small screwdrivers] and feel the
ridge wear in the axle sleeve. Remove the race [with
puller from 'T' supply houses]. Install inner axle seals
and new 'heat-treated' sleeves. ['T' supply houses have
Measure the rear axle bearing diameter with a
micrometer. The standard diameter size of the roller
bearing is 0.500 inches. If it measures 0.495 or more
its OK. If it less than 0.495 inches, replace the
I personally prefer a bearing 0.002 to 0.003 inches
under 0.500 inches.
The looser, the faster the car will go up to an
While the bearing is out, check the axle end play. If
over 1\32 inch [0.031"], it's excessive. If left this
way, the axle may shift in and out causing the drum to
rub the brake lining edges. It may squeal! Check the
Ford 'T' Service Manual for correct set up when
re-building the rear axle assembly.
Install inner grease seals [Part #2511] and the bearing
sleeves [there is a left and right sleeve; grease holes
must line up!].
Grease the rear axle bearing with heavy duty wheel
bearing grease or moly grease. Install bearings. Tap
bearings in lightly and turn cage back and forth. With
old bearings, they will slip in easily. With new,
reproduction bearings, a moderate tap is OK.
When all the way in, the bearings will rotate easily,
because the axle is usually worn from 0.003 to 0.005
inches on the bearing surface area. If in doubt about
the above, review the Ford 'T' Service Manual for
Check the brake shoe lining. The small 9-inch brakes
with lining is inadequate for hill country, but may be
OK for flat country [a personal opinion]. You may want
to consider 'rocky mountain' brakes.
The 11-inch brakes ['26°©'27 'T'] is much better and
adequate for mountain driving. 'Fade' may still be a
Recently , I had my 11-inch brakes relined with a
'molded Kevlar' lining used in industrial brake
applications. The brand name is Redco Heavy Duty Woven
Lining. This Kevlar lining will withstand higher
temperatures before fade than Model T brake lining. If
it fades, the brakes will recover faster upon cooling.
After 100 miles, the brakes seated and stopping power is
superb with minimum fade.
In either case, have the lining professionally drilled
and riveted with brake machinery. Don't skimp and do it
'by hand'! It will work loose! There goes your safety
Oil brake arm cam lever bushings. Put a thin film of
moly grease on the cam surface [top and bottom]. Install
lining. Disconnect brake rods.
Prepare rear axles. Remove axle burrs and shine taper
surfaces with 80 grit-type sand paper. Peen the outer
end of the axle keyway. Insert the axle key by tapping
into the burr. You don't want this to move when
installing the wheel hub. Clean axle threads with a _ x
13 [National Fine] die. Tap nut to clean thread.
Oil axle surface, axle thread, and nut for a better
Slip on hub drum. Rotate wheel. If you hear a metal
scraping, it may be the brake lining edge rubbing the
drum. Remove hub and install an axle shim [Part #2505
SH] coated with oil. Recheck for scraping sound.
The oiled axle shaft surfaces will provide a better
seating of the hub on the axle. Install the nut, and
snug lightly [for now]. Re-install brake rods, oil
clevis pins, and install cotter pins.
Adjust the brakes for equal drag. Pull the emergency
brake handle to the vertical position. Test for equal
drag on both wheels.
Move brake lever to neutral with no brake. Test for
free-wheeling at rear wheels. The trick is to have the
wheels free in neutral with no brake drag, then pull
lever to vertical. The wheels should have a heavy equal
drag to almost locked up with brake lever in vertical
Make sure emergency brake lever and locking pawl doesn't
slip. If it does, replace it [pawl].
In my experience, the rear brakes are, quite often,
adjusted too tight. If tight, the brake applies the
instant you pull the lever into neutral.
As new brake lining high spots wear in, re-adjust rear
brakes for equal drag as outlined above.
If all the above adjusts out as discussed above, tighten
brake rod clevis jam nuts and install cotter pins in
Torque the axle nuts to 75 foot pounds, align the cotter
pin slots, and insert the cotter pin.
Fill the differential case to bottom edge of fill plug
hole with 140 weight gear oil.
Now, for the big test! If all the above has been
performed with good repair practice and adjusted to
specification, your car should start in 5-10 seconds and
almost be ready to drive on tour! The order of start up
and drive events are as follows:
Adjust mixture, engine off
Crank and start
Adjust mixture and spark advance
Test for rod knocks
Test transmission band adjustment
Drive car, test shifting
Drive car, test brakes
Drive car, test for 'wabble'
Test for overheating
Drive car on tour!
Turn on gas and adjust mixture rod to one turn open from
seated position. Hook up battery.
With gas at half throttle and spark in full-retarded
position, crank engine for five seconds. During crank,
choke for up to two seconds.
On hand crank models, use the same throttle and retarded
spark settings as previously discussed. With ignition
off, pull crank through three times with full choke.
Turn on ignition, leave spark retarded, and crank to
Upon start up, be prepared to choke slightly as the
engine begins to rev up. If it's 'sputtering', open
choke [no choke] to let it rev up more. Advance spark to
half way on 'Ts' equipped with four coils and timer. To
lean the mixture, turn mixture knob clockwise until the
engine 'smooths out'.
Return to idle slowly. Adjust idle throttle screw and
mixture rod to maintain good idle smoothness.
NOTE: In my experience, the mixture rod will be open
around 3⁄4 turns from seated position at 1⁄2 throttle.
Idle mixture setting for a long idle usually requires
about 1⁄4 turn more rich [counter-clockwise] than at 1⁄2
throttle in neutral.
During warm up, rev engine to around 1200 RPM. Leave it
at a steady RPM. Listen for knock(s).
Short [with a screwdriver], one spark plug at a time.
That cylinder will drop in RPM. Simultaneously, listen
for knock while plug is shorted. If the knock goes away
while shorting out the cylinder, the rod is loose.
Perform the same test on remaining cylinders.
After a long warm up, perform the same rod knock test,
again. If it still knocks, the rod(s) is\(are) very
In addition, test for center main bearing knock by
holding at _ throttle and spark advanced halfway. Short
number two and three spark plug simultaneously. If the
knock goes away, adjust the center main after you adjust
the rods. If you have any doubt about knocks, review the
MTFCA Engine Manual for procedures.
To test the transmission bands, set emergency brake and
start engine. Warm up. With emergency brake set, push in
low pedal gently. Listen for a changing transmission
'whine'. This is the beginning of low band engagement.
This point should be around one °© two inches up from
the floorboard surface.
Next, push in reverse pedal with emergency brake set.
The pedal should travel about half-way (1⁄2) to the
With new, or old transmission bands, start with the
above suggested adjustments. The real test is on the
road. The adjustments may seem on the 'loose' side to
you. However, the loose adjustments will minimize
premature failure due to excessive drag.
If the bands are too tight, they will already be
partially engaged. They may work against each other, and
the transmission may sound like it's binding up. Further
the bands may burn and fail prematurely due to lack of
Sometimes the clutch disks will not allow a neutral. To
test for neutral while running with one wheel jacked up,
pull brake lever back slowly to neutral. Note RPM
change, if any. Then continue to pull increasing brake
drag. Engine RPM should not change and transmission
neutral is OK.
If engine slows down during this maneuver, clutch disks
are hung up and\or oil is congealed on disks' surfaces.
Try this brake on\off procedure for 10 minutes.
If it [neutral] still does not work, change oil again.
Repeat above steps. If it still hangs up, remove,
disassemble engine and transmission to repair clutch.
READY FOR ROAD TEST
Now the big plunge! You're ready for the road!
If you are not experienced, ask an experienced friend
who regularly drives 'Ts' on tours to drive your car the
Slowly, slowly, engage reverse pedal gently and back out
of the driveway. Leave emergency brake in neutral
position to hold clutch pedal in place, while backing
Push in low pedal to move forward. Leave emergency brake
lever in neutral. Accelerate to 10 MPH in low, then let
up on the throttle and low pedal.
Let the car coast. Then apply foot brakes, gently. No
chatter during stop- Next accelerate to 10 MPH in low.
With your foot still on low pedal let the brake lever
into high gear position [all the way down]. At 10 MPH,
let throttle off slightly and simultaneously let clutch
[high gear] engage by slowly letting up low pedal.
Note how smooth the shift is! If it chatters, the clutch
disks may be 'hanging up' on the inside of the
transmission brake drum guides.
After 50 miles or so, change the crankcase oil, again.
When bringing your car out of mothballs, the syrupy oil
could cause the hangup and rough shift. New oil may
minimize the rough shift.
You have been applying the emergency brake gently,
noting pull. At 30 MPH in high gear, let up on throttle
and pull emergency brake to lock the rear wheels [panic
stop]. Be prepared for a pull to right or left.
If it pulls to right, adjust the left clevis pin one
turn tighter and re-install cotter pin. Try panic stop
again. If you cannot get equal pull, re-line emergency
brakes as discussed in brake section.
Test for 'Wabble':
Proceed over chuck holes slowly [5 MPH]. If shimmy
develops, re-check front end looseness and alignment
checks, as outlined in the 'Front Axle' section.
Test the radiator. If it boils on a cool day during
these pre-tour tests, consider a 'flat tube' radiator
re-core or a new radiator. In a good radiator system,
water pumps are unnecessary, even on hot days.
READY FOR TOUR
If all the above works as outlined above, you're now
ready for a durable tour.
Before every tour:
_Fill radiator to 1⁄2 inch from full up
_ Check oil drip out of top petcock
_ Clean timer
_Fill tank with gas
_Turn front drive shaft bushing grease cup one turn.
_Start, warm up, and go on tour!